98 starter stays engaged

just installed engine in 98. Turn key to on position starter engages. Drive stays engaged. Unhook wire on starter drive kicks out. Where do I start testing.

I'm thinking a bad ignition switch.

Did the ignition key spring back to its 'run' position from the 'start' position? If the key sticks in the 'start' position when you take you hands off, try putting a drop of oil on the ignition key, and insert it in the lock. Give it ten minutes and repeat. Do this a few times and it can free up a stuck lock cylinder.

When I turn key to on position the starter engages. It never made it to the start position.

Assuming that the wire which you're unhooking at the starter solenoid is the smallest of the three wires - should be black/red, and that's the one which connects to the small 'S' terminal and energises the solenoid - then I'd agree that it's probably the ignition switch. That wire shouldn't receive 12V until the ignition switch is turned to the Start position, so if it's already receiving 12V in the On position then likely the ignition switch has failed internally.

There's a remote possibility that the black/red wire is shorted out to some other wire which receives 12V in the On position, but that really is a long shot. If you replace the switch it will probably cure it. As I'm sure you know, you don't need a lock cylinder - just a new switch section.

I'm thinking that there is something wrong with the wiring on the starter if you didn't have this problem before putting in the engine. I don't think the ignition switch would suddenly go bad after putting in another engine. I think the problem is the wiring on the starter. If you have an engine from another year the wiring to the starter could be different. I'd put my old starter back on to see if the problem is resolved. The wires to start and run are reversed.

Checked voltage on small wire blk/red. Was 11.97 volts with key on. Starter is from origional engine.

That being said I would have to go along with the ignition switch.

Something cheaper to do: Cut the wire going to the starter. Add a couple long pieces of wire to the two ends and mount a spring-loaded toggle switch in your car.

As Tumbleweed said, you could re-route that wire to a separate starter switch, and that avoids having to replace the ignition switch right now. My only concern with that would be that if the Start contacts have failed then some of the other circuits might not be too far behind.

Meantime, I'm sure you're keen to run and test the new engine, so you could remove the thin black/red wire from the starter solenoid, put some insulating tape on the end and tuck it safely out of the way. Then get a new length of wire, attach one end to the small 'S' terminal at the solenoid (the one from which you just removed the black/red wire) - route the other end up to near the battery and tie it to something. Strip a quarter inch of insulation from the end, and then when you want to start the engine, first ensure that you're in Neutral with parking brake applied (for a manual) or in Neutral or Park with parking brake applied (for an automatic), then switch the ignition to On, and briefly touch the bare end of that wire to the battery positive terminal, upon which the engine will crank - remove the wire as soon as the engine fires and runs.

If you do that then be aware that you're bypassing the safety circuit, so you must be sure to always be in Neutral or Park, and always apply the parking brake as a precaution.

Followed the advice and put a jumper with toggle switch. That worked until the car was brought down off the jackstands. Now their is nothing. No power in the red/blk wire. Checked battery voltage 12.36. Voltage at starter 9.5. Help, this thing is starting to grow roots in my garage.

Put it back on jackstands?

Ha Ha. Tried that but it did not help. I found out the car has an aftermarket alarm system, could that have anything to do with this>?

I have avoided ever getting a used car that had an alarm system on it - aftermarket or OEM; so I can only surmize the alarm system might have had a relay in the wire to the starter, & it could have been a solid state relay, built into the plastic box of the alarm system. If the alarm system had malfunctioned or been installed wrong, maybe it would explain why the starter would engage when it shouldnt.
But, you said the voltage at the starter was 9.5 volts. If that was the voltage between the heavy wire on the starter and the case of the starter, when the engine was cranking; I would consider that close to normal. If that was the voltage when the starter was NOt working, then there is something wrong in the heavy electrical circuitry. Like a bad battery cable (positive or negative) or the starter bolts being loose. My 92 & 94 Escorts have a negative wire that ran to a bolt on the metal of the firewall, and from there to the tranny case. On one of hem I had to replace that with a new ground cable - because it was corroded. It wasnt easy to see the corrosion, because it was hidden under the insulation of that wire.
When the starter on our 92 Escort was choosing from time to time not to work, I connected a 12 gauge wire, from the small 'spade' terminal on the starter, and ran it over near the battery. I could open the hood, touch that wire to the positive terminal on the battery, and the starter would work. Since I would do this with the ignition 'on', the engine would start up. I put in a rebuilt starter when we (wife and I) I got tired of doing this on rainy days.

Removed alarm system. Checked voltage at small wire to solenoid. Still nothing. Double checked ground, got voltage back. traced wire to ignition switch, had 11.9 volts at switch with key on. Put toggle switch back in line car starts and runs for now. Thanks for the help.

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